Samsung washer error codes

 

Samsung company has released a variety of models of washing machines. Although their error codes are generally standardized, the error indicators differ considerably. It is a simple thing in modern washing machines equipped with a display: an alphanumeric error code is displayed. Still, the display schemes of earlier models included the patterns of burning and flashing LEDs (indicators). In this article, we will try to tell you about most of them, including those used in old models.

Samsung washer error codes
Samsung washer error codes

Samsung washers generally use the same error codes. So first this article provides the most complete description of the error codes (now we consider the display models). Then you’ll find some links to the first table in the lists of the errors available for each of the display schemes and model series.

What is the order of description? First, we give a description of all possible error codes of the display washers. Then – the specific sets of errors of the individual series of the display washers, and finally – the errors of the washers without the display. You see, the schemes are abundant, and the article is long. So for ease of navigation, there are links to the description of all schemes below:

The error codes of the Samsung display washing machines

This table contains the codes of all models of the Samsung display washers so almost every fault has several codes indicated. The following sections of this article will provide specific codes for some lines of washers. The error codes starting with the letter E were used in old models of Samsung washers.

Please also note that one and the same error numbering system may have several codes for one malfunction. For example, the HE, HE1 and HE2 codes make a single group describing a water heating problem in the tub. Still, the exact causes of the malfunction may differ. This is done for reducing the description of the numerous error codes. In addition, the details of the errors still mean little to an average user. The handyman you are likely to call has some more detailed technical descriptions.

Code Description Troubleshooting
5E (SE)
5C
E2
The system is failing to drain dirty water: the water in the tub has not gone down to a certain level during the required time The reasons are as follows:

  • Something is stopping the water from leaving the washer: a defect or clog of the drain hose or the clog in the hydraulic system of the drain pump. You can fix all these things yourself
  • The wiring is damaged or the contacts are disconnected. We mean the contacts of the circuits containing the controller and the pump or the pressure switch. A similar problem may occur in the power circuit of the pump motor
  • The drain pump or its impeller has failed. You need to call a specialist for checking and replacing the coil or the entire motor
  • The water level switch is faulty. It requires a diagnosis and subsequent replacement
  • The controller is malfunctioning. The professional diagnosis and replacement is required if the board is faulty
  • It is a kind of exotic situation, but anything can happen: the washing machine was kept in a cold place and the water froze in the tub
H1, H2
HE, HE1, HE2
HC, HC1, HC2
E5, E6
The water in the tub is heated slowly or is not heated at all, or, conversely, is overheated There are many reasons for that, here are some of them:

  • The mains voltage is too low. If the voltage is too low in fact – you need to call an electrician
  • First, make sure that the wiring between the temperature sensor or the heating element and the controller is functioning. Check if all the contacts and connectors are connected securely
  • No signal from the temperature sensor may indicate its malfunction. You need to replace the faulty sensor
  • The relay of the heating element got “stuck”. It needs replacement as well
  • The heating element has burnt out, for example, because of the thick layer of the scale accumulated on it. The heater is beyond repair
  • A power circuit of the heating element is open. Check the wiring and the contacts
  • Oddly enough, the heating period may be too short for the water temperature to increase if the washer is located in a cold place. It’s a rare case, but it happens
  • The electronics is not functioning: the temperature sensor, the relay, and the controller
DE, DE1, DE2
DC, DC1, DC2
DOOR
ED
The controller is getting no signal that the door is closed or, conversely, the door won’t open As a result, the electronics is controlling the start of the cycle. The possible causes are the following ones:

  • First, the most obvious thing is to close the door tightly
  • Then make sure that no obstruction prevents you from closing the door. If the error is still there, then something is broken
  • The connection is broken between the control triac of the locking assembly and the controller. You need to check the circuit with a multimeter and check the contacts
  • Something is faulty in the lock assembly, for example, the lock or the hinges got loose. In principle, you can repair the lock yourself. Still, the lock assembly is a complex part including electronics, so you’d better contact the service center
  • The door look sensor is defective. It needs replacement
  • The controller of the lock assembly is faulty. You need to replace it.
4E (ЧЕ)
4C
E1
Water intake problems: the water won’t fill the tub during the required period of time The possible causes are the following ones:

  • The water is not entering the washer. Why? The water tap is closed, the water pressure is weak, the hose is damaged or clogged, the inlet valve is clogged etc. All these things are quite easy for you to fix them yourself
  • You have forgotten to close the door tightly, and the electronics are controlling the start of the washing cycle
  • The inlet electrovalve is faulty. You will have to replace it
  • The water level sensor is malfunctioning. It requires a diagnosis and subsequent replacement
  • The circuit is open or the contacts of the circuits containing the controller and the inlet valve or the water level switch
  • The controller is malfunctioning. The professional diagnosis and replacement is required if the board is faulty
SUd
5d (Sd)
The suds are excessive during the washing cycle The reasons for the uncommon foaming are the following:

  • If you have used a wrong washing powder, for example, the one not intended for automatic washing machines, try changing the detergent
  • If you have exceeded the required portion of the detergent for one washing cycle, try reducing the portion the next time you start the cycle.
  • The water drain is poor. See the description of the 5E error
  • The pressure switch is broken or its circuit is open. You need to check the circuit with a multimeter, check and replace the switch
  • The same is true for the foam level sensor if available
  • The controller is malfunctioning. Call a handyman.
UE
UB
E4
The drum position is wrong, there is no balance The possible causes are the following ones:

  • Perhaps the load is excessive or, conversely, insufficient
  • It is possible that you have placed the laundry in the tub in a wrong way so there is no balance
  • The washer is not planted strictly horizontally. Use a level gauge to check it.
  • The drive belt of the electric motor of the washer is damaged. It needs replacement
  • The wiring of the washer is faulty. You need to check the circuit with a multimeter, fix the defective sections, check the contacts, and tighten them
  • The drum position sensor is defective. You need to diagnose and replace the sensor
  • The same is true for the tachogenerator or Hall sensor
  • Something is malfunctioning in the electric motor: either the brushes are worn out or the bearing is jammed. You need to call a specialist
  • The control module is malfunctioning. Call the handyman to check it out.
LE, LE1
LC, LC1
E9
The water is leaking from the washer, or the appliance is self-draining The following units of the washer may cause the problem:

  • Inspect all the places in the washer the water can leak from: the fill and drain hoses, the door and its gasket, the detergent drawer, the inner pipes, and the tub
  • The drain pump is leaking. It is likely to be beyond repair, so you will have to replace it
  • The suds are excessive. See the description of the SUd error
  • The fault or break in the control circuit of one of the sensors: the water level switch or the leak control system (“Aqua-Stop”)
  • The drain hose is improperly connected to the sewer
  • The electronics are faulty
3E, 3E1, 3E2,
3E3, 3E4
3C, 3C1, 3C2,
3C3, 3C4
EA
The electronic controller is not getting a signal from the tachogenerator of the drive motor
  • The load is excessive, so the motor is overworking
  • The circuit containing the tachogenerator is open, or the contacts are weakened
  • The tacho washer fixing the coil has broken loose, so the sensor has popped out of its seating
  • The tachogenerator is faulty. It needs to be replaced
  • The motor may be faulty as well. It needs diagnosis and repair or replacement
  • There are problems at the other end of the tachogenerator circuit: something is wrong with the controller
bE (6E)
bE1, bE2, bE3
bC, bC2, b2
Eb
The washing machine won’t start, or the problems with the triac of the drive motor are detected Actually, the group of error codes is somewhat strange: the washer may not start due to many reasons. The motor may not rotate the drum due to the fault of the triac (then you need to check its circuit, the actual sensor, and the controller). The other possible reasons are the faulty tachogenerator (see the description of the 3E error) or internal motor failures.
tE, tE1, tE2,
tE3
tC, tC1, tC2,
tC3, tC4
Ec
The controller is not getting  a signal from the temperature sensor (thermostat) The possible causes are the following ones:

  • First, make sure that the wiring between the temperature sensor or the heating element and the controller is functioning. Check if all the contacts and connectors are connected securely
  • No signal from the sensor may indicate its malfunction. You need to replace the faulty sensor
  • The relay of the heating element got “stuck”. It needs replacement as well
  • The controller of the lock assembly is faulty. It requires professional diagnostics and controller replacement
1E (IE)
1C (IC)
E7
The controller is not getting  a signal from the water level sensor What are the causes of the error and the usual actions, when the faulty sensor warning is displayed? First, you need to make sure that the circuit between the part and the controller is functioning; all the contacts are fixed and are not oxidized. Then check the actual sensor. If it is damaged, it needs replacement. Complete the troubleshooting by checking the controller. You’d better contact specialists for its diagnosis and replacement.
OE (0E)
OF (0F)
OC (0C)
E3
The tub is overfilled The main reasons are bad draining, sensor failure, and some wrong detergent.

  • If you are using a powder not suitable for this washing cycle, try changing the detergent
  • If you have exceeded the required portion of the detergent for one washing cycle, try reducing the portion the next time you start the cycle.
  • The water drain is poor. See the description of the 5E error
  • The pressure switch is broken or its circuit is open. You need to check the circuit with a multimeter, check and replace the switch
  • The same is true for the inlet filling valve
  • The controller is malfunctioning. Call a handyman.
Uc
9C
9E1, 9E2
The mains voltage level is not meeting the specifications of this washer model Call an electrician to check and repair the wiring. If it doesn’t help, then the device itself is malfunctioning, and this time you will have to contact the service center.
2H
3H
4P
The code is the remaining time to the end of the washing cycle (it is not an error code!) The owners of the washing machines with small two-character displays can see such a code during a long cycle. These displays cannot show a three-digit number of remaining minutes. Here “H” stands for “Hour” while the number indicates the remaining hours. “2” is 100-180 minutes, “3” is 180-240 minutes, “4” –  more than 240 minutes; the code will disappear when 99 minutes are left.
AE
AC
ACb (AC6)
13E
An error has occurred in exchanging data between the control module and the information display board
  • The circuit between the boards is open. It requires checking with a multimeter, wiring repair, tightening of contacts and connectors
  • The information display board may be faulty. It needs a diagnosis, repair or replacement
  • The control board is malfunctioning. Then contact the service center
FE
FC
The fan is not working The possible causes are the following ones:

  • The fan is faulty. You need to repair or replace it
  • The circuit containing the fan sensors and the controller is open. It requires wiring repair and contact tightening
  • The fan sensors are malfunctioning. It needs a diagnosis, repair or replacement
  • The control board is malfunctioning. Then contact the service center
EE The drying temperature is too high
  • First of all, check the drying temperature sensor and its circuit. Repair the wiring and replace the faulty sensor
  • The same is true for the heater and its control circuit
  • At last, check the controller, but this is a work for a specialist
ddC The Add Door was opened, although the pause button was not pressed. (It is the door for loading some laundry during the washing cycle) To continue washing, close the door and press the Start/Pause button
dC3 The electronic controller is not getting  a signal from the Add Door: either the door is not locked or it won’t open See the description of the “DE” error. The reasons are similar to those of the main door lock
8E, 8E1
8C, 8C1
The VRT+ vibration sensor is not working The sensor is installed on the models produced in 2013 and on; it is the analog of the Hall sensor

  • The circuit containing the sensor and the controller is open. It requires wiring repair and contact tightening
  • The sensor is faulty. It needs a diagnosis, repair or replacement
  • The control board is malfunctioning. Then contact the service center
PoF
PF
The power supply was disconnected during the washing cycle Just resume the cycle by pressing the Start/Pause button
Ao..A9
B0, C0
D0, E0
It is not an error: the system is just informing you that the washer is working in a test mode To exit the test mode, see the instructions for your washer
Hot The temperature is high (above 70 degrees) during the drying cycle It is not an error, but a simple information message just in case. It will disappear after the temperature falls
CE, AC
ACb (AC6)
4C2
Too hot water is entering the tub The washer immediately begins to drain and displays the error code.

  • Some installation is wrong: the filling hose is connected to the hot water supply
  • The thermostat is faulty or its control circuit is open
  • The heating element is faulty: it is malfunctioning, or some short circuit has occurred
  • The controller is malfunctioning
6C
SdC (5dC)
The automatic dispenser is not working Applicable only for models with Wi-Fi support.

  • The dispenser actuator valve or its sensor is faulty. It requires a diagnostics, valve repair, and sensor replacement
  • The circuit containing the sensor is open. You need to repair the wiring, to tighten the contacts, and clean them
  • As always, electronics failure is not excluded

 The error codes of the Samsung washing machines wf-s1054

Error codes Description
HE1, HE2 The water in the tank does not heat up. Water overheats or heats slowly.
tE No signal from a temperature sensor
3E Tachogenerator does not transmit information
BE, IE Tachogenerator supplied the information about the wash
4E Too slow water enters a tank
LE Self-draining of water from the tank
CE The too high temperature when washing
OE Too much water in the tank
UE Unbalance of the laundry in the tub
5E Water drains too slowly or does not drain at all.
dE The hatch door is unlocked, the wash is interrupted
F15 Problems with heating the water in the tank to a predetermined temperature
F16 The door is not tightly closed

The error codes of the Samsung washing machines R833GW1

Error codes Description
E5, E6 Heating of water in the tank is incorrect.
EC The thermal sensor is faulty
EA No signal from tachogenerator or signal too weak
EB, E7 Incorrect information from tachogenerator when washing
E1 Too slow water enters the tank
E3 Too much water in the tank
E9 Self-draining of water from the tank
E8 The too high temperature when washing
E4 Marked imbalance of laundry in the tank
E2 Problems with the discharge of wastewater from the tank
Door The hatch door is unlocked, the wash is interrupted

The error codes of the Samsung washing machines P1405J / P1205J / P1005J / P805J

Error codes Description
E1 Too slow water poured into the tank
E2 Problems with the discharge of wastewater from the tank
E3 Too much water in the tank
DOOR The hatch door is unlocked, the wash is interrupted
E4 Imbalance of linen in the tank
E5, E6 Heating of water in the tank is incorrect.
E7 Faulty water level sensor (pressure switch)
E8 The too high temperature when washing
E9 Self-draining of water from the tank

The error codes of the Samsung S821XX / S621XX washing machines without the display

How do Samsung washing machines without a display report problems? With flashing and burning indicators (LEDs) and a relevant sound signal. Let’s talk about the washers of the series S821xx and S621xx. When an error occurs, all the cycle indicators flash (two columns on the left) and one or more water temperature indicators illuminate. The table below shows all possible illuminations of the water temperature indicators.

samsung no display

There is no alphanumeric error code numbering provided for the washers without the display. The codes shown in the table are only references to the general table of error codes.

Error Indicators Description
 Bio 60oC  60oС  40oС  Cold
5E Water set error
4E Water drain error
OE Overflowing water
UE Drum imbalance
HE Water heating error
HE Water heating error
DE Error opening/closing the door
1E Water level sensor (pressure switch) error
CE Incorrect tank water temperature
LE Leakage of water in the pan or self-draining
3E Tachogenerator error of the drive motor
bE Short-circuiting the motor triac
tE The thermal sensor is faulty

The error codes of the Samsung r1031gws/ylr, r831gws/ylr washing machines without the display

How do Samsung washing machines without a display report problems? With flashing and burning indicators (LEDs) and a relevant sound signal. Let’s talk about the washers of the series R1031xx and R831xx. When an error occurs, all the cycle indicators flash (two columns on the left) and one or more water temperature indicators illuminate. The table below shows all possible illuminations of the water temperature indicators.

samsung washer no display

There is no alphanumeric error code numbering provided for the washers without the display. The codes shown in the table are only references to the general table of error codes.

Error Indicators Description
 95oC  60oC  40oC  30oC
5E Water set error
4E Water drain error
OE Overflowing water
UE Drum imbalance
HE Water heating error
HE Water heating error
DE Error opening/closing the door
1E Water level sensor (pressure switch) error
CE Incorrect tank water temperature
LE Leakage of water in the pan or drain
3E Tachogenerator error of the drive motor
bE Motor triac short circuit
tE The thermal sensor is faulty